Friday, 8 February 2013

Secret Tunnels fit for a King

Following on from last month's King's Ginger adventure that looked at of one of the more formal and sensible royal appointments that His Majesty King Edward VII undertook, namely the opening of the Bethnal Green Museum, this time I'm returning to his saucier side. Follow me to Soho and a place of secret tunnels, hidden pleasures, dancing, drinking and revelry... the historic Kettner's.




Auguste Kettner was a chef to Napoleon who came to England and opened his restaurant in 1867. He served French food with an experimental and unusual edge, at a time when French culture, couture and cuisine were beginning to become hugely fashionable. The site he chose was in the heart of Soho, originally four narrow Georgian townhouses, which he had knocked together to create a generously sized place suitable to entertain celebrities and later, royalty. It was sumptuously decorated, with wood panelling and beautiful architectural details.




Oscar Wilde dined there, a fact verified by the Oscar Wilde Society; and latterly Agatha Christie and Bing Crosby as well as a host of (unnamed) modern-day celebs. But they aren't why I'm writing about it, of course.

Our favourite ginger-drinking monarch was a regular visitor to Kettners, both before and after he ascended the throne. He used to entertain his favourite mistress (and former subject of a blog of her own), the lovely Lillie Langtry in what is now known as The Apartment. This in and of itself is not particularly remarkable. What is noteworthy, is the fact that the king ordered a secret tunnel to be built between the fashionable Kettners and the nearby Palace Theatre of Varieties (or simply the Palace Theatre as it is now known). On my private show-round for this piece, I was taken down to the depths of the kitchen to have a look at the tunnel entrances, now sadly bricked up and used as a very unglamorous storage area. I snapped some photos of the iron bars and antique brickwork just for general interest... Loo rolls have been cropped out.



The place is like a rabbit warren underneath, and though it's all fitted with modern kitchen equipment, it's fun to imagine Edward and Lillie creeping hand in hand after she'd finished a stage performance, through the rooms and up the back stairs to the Apartment. For dancing, quaffing champagne, partying until dawn and all sorts of un-Royal tomfoolery, of course.

The place itself has both changed in the 150 years since and yet somehow stayed the same, enduring an awful lot in its long history.


After its early heyday, Kettner's star waned until, by the latter half of the 20th century, it had become a pizza restaurant - all faded splendour and peeling paint. Lots of people were up in arms when it got a makeover in 2008-9, claiming it had lots its character, but today, it does have a Victorian/Edwardian grandeur. The original features in the Brasserie might be painted a modern gray, but you can still feel the shadow of the past.

The Apartment is, as glimpsed above, still with all its original dark wood panelling, and is a lovely place, featuring some original bits and antique acquisitions, like the gramophone. Though I can only imagine the opulence it must have had in Bertie's day. And on the same floor, now sadly long gone are the rooms where, legend has it, King Edward used to have regular baths, so much did he enjoy his stays at Kettner's. I'm positive that he wouldn't have been in the bathtub alone, though.



The grand piano has old songsheets dotted around its top, including Tommy Lad, which would probably have been playing somewhere during one of King Edward's parties in 1907.


Downstairs is a little more modern, with a cocktail bar famous for its champagne selection, and cocktails named after our story's characters.



The Sour VII. Delicious, but would be better with a dash of KGL!





Neither the Sour VII nor Lillie's Lemonade above contained any King's Ginger. In fact, the bar didn't carry it at all! Lucky I visited really, as they've assured me they will be making the necessary enquiries to try it right away.

If you get a chance to visit Kettner's (after they've stocked up on The King's Ginger of course), then do ask to have a look and a sit in the historic Apartment, just to soak up the atmosphere and some of the fun that must have happened up there. I certainly did!



As ever, please look at The King's Ginger site, the News page contains links to every one of my adventures so far. These are truly the most exciting articles I do, for every one is different and a total joy to write! I really hope you enjoy reading them. Please do leave me a comment if you do.

And, as I get asked it A LOT, on the Where to Buy page, you can find a list of all retailers, as well as a drop-down to find it in Australia, America and Canada! Get some in while it's chilly, Northern Hemisphere!

Until next time,

Fleur xx
DiaryofaVintageGirl.com

16 comments:

  1. It is hard to believe anyone could produce those floors! Beautiful!
    -Jamie
    ChatterBlossom

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  2. Secret passage even! If only it was still useable. The life-long Nancy Drew lover in me just pines away for things like that. What a gorgeous building. That tile floor is just stunning. Lovely!

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  3. Love your fingernails. How did you get the moons so perfect?

    What a fun place. You get to go to some pretty amazing places!

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  4. I enjoy reading this series, it is always good to have history bought to life. The Apartment looks very glamorous.

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  5. Fully inspired by your blog! One day I would love to have a blog as successful as yours! Only just starting out and I know I have a long way to go but please may you take a look at my site: http://cassandrafayblog.blogspot.co.uk thank you :) x

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  6. These pictures are gorgeous! They make me want to visit this place so bad--it's beautiful! Those tiles! Also, you look divine--love that coat!

    Jordan
    http://www.jordansvintagekitchen.blogspot.com

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  7. I absolutely adore wood panelling like that. And I want to pinch the gramophone!

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  8. Hello Fleur! I've been following you for a while and love your historical expeditions, such beautiful photos and interesting places. Alas I now live in France and haven't a faintest where I could find The King's Ginger; this is especially frustrating as I am a huge cocktail fan and try and make a different one every Friday night. I have added your lovely blog to the links page on my blog, so please come visit! You can find us here:
    http://tincupbrewup.co.uk/
    Looking forward to the next post!
    Love Java x

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  9. Love the King Ginger stories. Every single one!

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  10. Dear Fleur,
    I love your blog and have been following you for at couple of years now. I have just watched the last episode of The Bletchley Circle and I could swear that the picture of the dead girl on the desk and in the files was of you....? "Oh, thats Fleur!" I shouted - I know ....you dont know me but I feel like I know you....
    Best wishes from Christine in Denmark

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  11. I love reading this series! It's such a fun step back into history :) Keep it up x

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  12. Hi, My friend shared this post to me and I like to read such good one. Your post is interesting to read and I like the pics in your post...

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  13. Hi,I read many post in this blog. Pictures are cool to look and I heard about this secret tunnels and this one is good.

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  14. Fascinating! I love your historical posts, they are always so interesting. I'm desperate to try some King's Ginger. Anything gingery is delicious, as is anything historical!

    Cherry

    http://mrsstonesthrupennybits.blogspot.co.uk/

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  15. Fascinating history and as always so much of it is under our noses. Would love to have seen the tunnels when they were open. I have been down to the cellars (with my camera) of the Viaduct Tavern, Holborn and that is amazing to see - very creepy when you realise what must have happened there years ago and I have loved reading about Kettners and might ask if I can have a sneaky peak at what is left of the tunnels for myself next time I am there.I also like ginger so may have to try a cocktal that has ginger in when they stock up!! I will have to follow your posts in future!!!

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  16. Still loving these posts :) Love the little potted history of the place in poster/mural form.

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