Friday, 10 July 2009

V.I. Buys - 1920s edition

As you all know, my eras of choice for my clothes and my hairstyles are the late 30s, 40s and the early 1950s. But I do have a secret, burning desire to get a 1920s outfit, learn to fingerwave and faux bob my hair, and, now I have learned a bit of it, go out and dance the Charleston all night long. I have never in my life seen a real vintage 20s dress, nor have I ever tried on anything reproduction 1920s. I have a horrible feeling that on someone like me, with a largeish bust and childbearing hips, that silhouette would do no favours at all.

But one glance through the Fedora Lounge thread entitled '1920s - fashion with fun, whimsy and chic', and one can hardly deny that the period from 1920-29 was a one that featured some of the most fabulous sartorial creations. The clothes of the time were undeniably the biggest change in fashion from the previous decades, the shapes, the fabrics and the hairstyles were all utterly revolutionary. And it's also one of the most neglected decades as far as reproduction clothing goes. A visit to the Black Cotton Club in London will reveal an abundance of hen party (batchelorette) ladies dressed in cheap, fancy dress flapper outfits and feather boas, the skirts skimming their bottoms and a trail of neon coloured feathers marking their tottering route around the dance floor, to the ladies and back.

But, as fashion history buffs well know, flappers were considered shocking for daring to show their knees not their thighs and bottoms, and the vast majority of dresses in that era were much longer. All this considered, I was delighted to discover a while back, also through the Fedora Lounge, LeLuxe Clothing. These truly stunning dresses are almost identical to the originals they were inspired by. In their own words, from creator Shane Burroughs' Myspace page:

"Jill and I draw on our combined experience and good taste as well as our extensive collection of vintage dresses to design authentic reproduction dresses from the 1920s era in a full range of sizes. Some are painstaking reproductions of original designs, but most are completely new and original. And all LeLuxe dresses feature design elements that are historically accurate. "

Just one glance through their catalogue shows that they are not exaggerating!

The stunning Deco Dot Gown (on the site in white now):






The Gold Duchess:



And the amazing Red Silk Millie:



Just look at the detail!



The also do the most stunning day dresses, in embroidered cotton. This is the 1930s French Knot Arts & Crafts Dress:



And this beautiful Yellow Daffodil Empire Smocked dress is one that has gone immediately on my wishlist... do you think it would work with my figure?





All pictures from the LeLuxe Flickr page.


They are also ethically made in India by one artisan. From their Myspace page again:

"He works exclusively for us and does nothing but our 1920s beaded dresses. He has become quite a master at these designs after six years of doing very complicated vintage reproductions. I have offered to find him other clients who are not in direct competition with me and he has declined because, he says, it would be harder to control the quality on a larger scale. You have to love and respect a guy like that. We are very blessed to have found him. He does all the finishing himself and he is VERY particular and detail oriented. It shows in the quality of his dresses. I would put our dresses up against any other manufacturer in the world.

He works from his home in India and he uses anywhere from 7-10 of the most experienced beaders available. His beaders are all grown men, supporting families, and he pays them higher than the going rate for beaders because these designs are often very complex and only the most experienced beaders can do the work. I have watched them work and I have personally supervised the operation and seen it with my own eyes. The conditions are good, and as I said, he works from his home and far from using child labor - as is, I suppose, common in India - the people he has working for him were all men, mostly in their 30s and 40s...some into their 60s."

I would love to try one of their beaded numbers, maybe swish about in the Millie. LeLuxe even do slips to wear underneath. And I'd wear it with a pair of Balboa pumps from Remix Vintage:



What do you think?

In other news, tomorrow is the event I have been waiting months for, the Chap Olympiad 2009! I have been appointed as the official, glamorous scoreboard lady. I am praying for a dry day as I want to wear my new, black straw 1940s sun hat, but it's undoubtedly going to be cloudy and none too warm. That's not too much of a pain as I won't get burnt, and I can wear stockings, but please, weather gods, make it stay dry! I'll be back with photos from the Olympiad, a beauty article and more, next week.

Tally ho!

Fleur xx

17 comments:

  1. Oh I've been thinking of this too for a while, to step away from my usual 50's ingenue look and try something 20's. Leluxe does some extremely gorgeus stuff and I am glad it's all ethically made.

    Go for it!

    TessTrueheart

    ReplyDelete
  2. This is my favorite era. I love to do my hair up and makeup all Clara Bow style. =) I have simple reproductions, and would die to get my hands on ones so lovely!

    ReplyDelete
  3. I often handle some original 1920's dresses in the museum I work in. These reproductions look like the real thing!
    I wonder how heavy they are. The originals with so much beading are very very heavy.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Oh indeed, to be Lady Julia Flyte!
    Fab post!

    ReplyDelete
  5. Beautiful dresses, love the two in white.

    ReplyDelete
  6. Yes, the 1920's was a fabulous time for fashion, makeup and hairstyles. Coco Chanel inspired frocks, low waistlines and drapey fabric. It is rather annoying that people always associate the 1920's with Flappers. Yes, the flappers were alive and well in presence. But the 1920's was so much more than just that!

    I know what you mean about having a figure for it! It was attractive for women in the 1920's to have a boyish figure and flat chest. They would even go to the extreme of bandaging them down. Or purchasing a special side lacing bra that you could pull and pull to get a flatter chest. Oh my! I don't think I could do that even if I tried.

    You can also see the boyish look in the hairstyles through the later 20's. The Eton cut was a perfect example of that.

    Great post!!

    X,
    Syd

    ReplyDelete
  7. oh good gracious! these are beautiful! thank you for all this information. i think i'm going to save up for one of these lovely creations. i'm literally drooling.

    ReplyDelete
  8. Dear god, please, Fleur, you can hardly describe yourself as having child-bearing hips. You're enviably tall and slim.

    ReplyDelete
  9. Love Love Love the Gold Duchess dress, the french knot arts & craft dress, and of course the Yellow Daffodil dress. I think all of them would work on you :) I love the Vintage Remix idea with the pumps too! 'Child bearing hips' you say?? hmmm, I think not missy! Take a look at mine after having a baby and then we'll talk ;)

    ReplyDelete
  10. The red Millie beaded number is exquisite! Can't wait to see your pics when you decide.

    ReplyDelete
  11. Those dresses are so beautiful! The beadwork is truly artistic and amazing! I think you'd be beautiful in one! You should check out my blog today, I found some old homemaking magazines from 1928 and there are some fashion samples in them that I have shown on my blog.

    Take care, Sharon

    ReplyDelete
  12. Oh, I love the '20s, too. But I'm also afraid flapper dresses wouldn't suit my figure or my height! Plus I'm too lazy to learn how to do my hair. ;]
    But I think the Daffodil Empire Smocked dress would look lovely on you! It has more shape than the flapper dresses plus you've got the height!
    -Andi x

    ReplyDelete
  13. These are amazing! Thank you for sharing the link. I think the Daffodil Empire Smocked dress would be a good fit for you, as would the white Arts and Crafts day dress, which would show off your tiny waist. Both are fantastic! And I love the story behind the company.

    ReplyDelete
  14. I think yoy would look great in the 20´s style- beaccuse of your height! You should definatly try the style if you want to!

    ReplyDelete
  15. I cannot thank you enough for directing my to this website, the 1920's is my favourite decade! I'd rather have an original dress, but I'd be afraid to damage it, so these are perfect!

    ReplyDelete
  16. Such lovely dresses...as a bit of a 20's obsessive it gladdens my heart to hear I am not the only one who has noticed the annoyingly short cheap flapper fancy dress wear. I mean if you are doing repro stuff get your facts right - those are all just tarty modern dresses with a bit of a curtain fringe..rant over!
    As for wearing 20's stuff, I am also cursed/blessed with a large chest, but think you could easily pull it off anyway.
    Only problem with 20's glam is where do you really go to dance charleston all night long? Apart from Black Cotton I don't know anywhere in London where you can, as most vintage nights are forties ones. Any suggestions?

    ReplyDelete

I welcome all comments, praise and constructive criticism alike! Please note, though, that I don't respond to anonymous comments. If you want to offer a criticism then have the conviction to do so publicly. I thank you!

Take a look!

Blog Widget by LinkWithin